How to Lay Artificial Grass on Soil - for a Clean, Low-Maintenance Finish

Preparing the Ground for Artificial Grass

Laying artificial grass directly onto soil requires thorough preparation to ensure a smooth, stable, and long-lasting surface. The key to success is creating a solid sub-base that prevents movement, promotes drainage, and supports the synthetic turf evenly. Without proper groundwork, the surface can become uneven, waterlogged, or prone to weed growth.

The first step is to remove any existing turf, plants, and debris. Strip back the top layer of soil using a spade or turf cutter, going deep enough to remove the root zone. Aim for a depth of around 75 to 100mm, depending on how much base material you intend to lay. The ground should be clear of large stones and levelled as much as possible before continuing.

Creating a Stable Sub-Base

Once the soil is cleared, a compacted sub-base is essential. A mixture of crushed aggregate, typically MOT Type 1 or Type 3, is laid and compacted to create a firm foundation. This layer should be spread evenly across the area to a depth of 50 to 75mm, depending on foot traffic. Heavier use, such as in family gardens or pet areas, benefits from a thicker, more stable base.

The sub-base must be compacted using a vibrating plate compactor. This reduces the risk of movement over time and provides a smooth platform for the layers above. Edges should be retained with treated timber or steel edging to keep the base in place and define the shape of the finished lawn.

Adding a Laying Course

On top of the compacted sub-base, a finer layer is added to provide a smooth finish. This is usually granite dust or sharp sand, applied to a depth of around 15 to 25mm. Granite dust is preferable because it locks together better and offers improved drainage compared to sand alone. Once laid, this layer is also compacted and levelled thoroughly to avoid bumps or hollows under the turf.

Installing Weed Membrane

A geotextile weed membrane is rolled out across the laying course to prevent weeds from growing through the artificial grass. This barrier is especially important on soil bases, as it provides long-term protection against unwanted growth without the need for chemical treatments. The membrane should be cut to fit the area precisely, overlapping the edges slightly and secured in place with landscape staples if needed.

Laying and Positioning the Artificial Grass

The artificial grass should be rolled out and left to rest for a few hours to allow any creases to settle. Ensure the pile direction runs in the same direction across all pieces for a consistent look. Position the grass carefully, trimming the edges with a sharp utility knife to fit the area exactly. Around corners, curves, or obstacles, make incremental cuts to avoid over-trimming.

Where multiple rolls are needed, seams should be joined carefully using jointing tape and adhesive designed for artificial turf. The edges must meet snugly without overlapping, and pressure should be applied to the seam to secure the bond.

Securing and Finishing the Lawn

Once the turf is positioned and cut to shape, it must be secured. Use ground pins or galvanised nails around the perimeter, spaced at regular intervals to hold the grass firmly in place. Avoid pinning through visible areas of the lawn to maintain a clean finish.

The final step is to brush up the grass fibres using a stiff broom or power brush. This lifts the pile, helping the turf look more natural and full. Infill can be added depending on the type of grass used—silica sand is common, helping to weigh the grass down, improve durability, and support the fibres.

Consider Drainage Conditions Carefully

If the area has poor drainage or a high water table, water can collect under the turf and lead to odours, movement, or moss growth. In such cases, installing a slight gradient (fall) in the sub-base helps water flow away from the surface. Perforated land drainage pipes can also be fitted beneath the base if drainage is a major issue, particularly in larger or frequently wet areas.

Granite dust or limestone chippings should be used as the top layer of the sub-base, as they compact into a stable, porous surface that resists washout and allows water to pass through freely.

Accounting for Pets and High Foot Traffic

If the area is used by dogs or sees frequent activity, it’s important to choose the right grass type and base. Opt for a short, dense-pile artificial grass that’s easy to clean and resistant to wear. Install an odour-neutralising infill like zeolite granules, which helps control ammonia smells from pet urine.

For durability, use a thicker sub-base and possibly even install a shock pad layer beneath the grass. This adds cushioning and reduces compaction from regular use, improving comfort underfoot.

Let the Grass Acclimate Before Fixing

Artificial grass should be rolled out and left in place for at least a few hours, preferably a full day if conditions allow. This gives the material time to adjust to outdoor temperatures and settle naturally, reducing wrinkles and making it easier to work with. In cooler weather, the grass will be stiffer and harder to shape; in warmer conditions, it becomes more flexible.

Seam Joining Techniques

For a seamless look, it’s essential to take care with joining two pieces of turf. Always ensure the pile runs in the same direction on both pieces. When cutting, remove a small strip (known as the selvedge) along the edge to avoid any factory fraying. Use high-quality artificial grass adhesive and jointing tape, and apply consistent pressure along the seam until it fully bonds.

Masking tape or weights can help hold the seams tight while curing. Avoid disturbing the join for several hours.

Edging Options for a Cleaner Finish

Proper edging does more than define the shape—it prevents the grass from shifting and keeps the base in place. Timber battens are a common solution, set into the ground flush with the surface and fixed with stakes. For curved designs, flexible edging such as steel or recycled plastic strips can follow contours more easily. Edging should be set before adding the sub-base, so it’s integrated into the structure.

Dealing with Slopes or Uneven Ground

Laying artificial grass on a slope requires extra attention to fixing points and edge securing. Use longer ground pins or timber edging fixed deep into the slope. Install the turf with the pile pointing downhill for the most natural appearance and better drainage flow.

On uneven ground, it’s essential to level the area as much as possible during the sub-base stage. Any dips or high spots will be visible once the grass is laid, especially in sunlight.

Regular Maintenance Still Matters

While artificial grass is low maintenance, it’s not zero maintenance. Regular brushing keeps the pile upright and removes debris. Occasional rinsing helps prevent build-up of dust or organic material, particularly in shaded areas where moss or algae may form. Pet areas may require more frequent cleaning and sanitising.

Final Word

Laying artificial grass on soil takes planning and precision, but the results are worth it. With a stable base, proper drainage, and a clean finish, artificial turf offers a practical, low-maintenance alternative to natural grass. Whether you're covering a small garden or a large lawn area, following these steps ensures a smooth surface that looks great year-round and stands up to daily use.