How to Fit Artificial Grass on Soil - for a Lasting, Natural-Looking Finish

Preparing the Ground Properly

Fitting artificial grass on soil begins with careful groundwork. The area must be cleared of any existing turf, roots, debris, and large stones. This usually involves removing the top layer of soil to a depth of around 75 to 100 millimetres. Stripping away this topsoil is crucial to eliminate organic material that could decompose, shift, or encourage weed growth beneath the surface later.

Once cleared, the soil should be levelled and compacted to create a stable foundation. Any hollows or raised areas should be corrected at this stage to prevent uneven surfaces once the grass is laid. For areas with poor drainage, it may be necessary to shape a very slight gradient to allow water to run off.

Installing the Sub-Base for Stability

With the top layer removed and the soil compacted, the next step is to lay a sub-base. This layer is essential for both stability and drainage. A compacted layer of MOT Type 1 or Type 3 aggregate, spread evenly to a depth of approximately 50 to 75 millimetres, provides a solid and supportive foundation. The aggregate should be thoroughly compacted using a vibrating plate compactor to prevent movement over time.

On top of the aggregate, a finer layer of sharp sand or granite dust can be added to provide a smooth, level surface for the artificial grass. This final layer, typically 15 to 25 millimetres thick, should also be compacted and levelled off precisely. It’s this layer that will determine how natural and even the finished surface appears.

Installing Weed Membrane

Before laying the artificial grass, a weed membrane should be installed. This prevents weeds from pushing through the turf and reduces future maintenance. The membrane should cover the entire area, overlapping at the joints and extending slightly beyond the edges to allow for final trimming once the grass is in place.

Laying the membrane directly on top of the compacted base ensures that it stays in position and doesn’t shift during the fitting process.

Positioning and Cutting the Artificial Grass

Artificial grass should be rolled out and left to rest in position for a few hours before trimming. This allows any creases to settle and ensures the grass adjusts to the temperature and conditions, making it easier to handle. Always position the grass so that the fibres point in the same direction, especially if using multiple rolls, to ensure a consistent and natural-looking finish.

Cut the turf to shape using a sharp utility knife, trimming from the underside for cleaner, more precise edges. Around borders, curves, and obstacles, make incremental cuts to achieve an accurate fit without over-trimming.

Joining and Securing the Grass

If more than one roll of grass is needed, the edges must be carefully joined using adhesive and jointing tape designed for artificial turf. The edges should be laid flat, aligned with minimal gap or overlap, and secured firmly to prevent lifting. For best results, apply pressure along the join while the adhesive cures.

The perimeter of the grass should be secured using galvanised nails, U-pins, or landscape edging depending on the site conditions. Pins should be spaced evenly along the outer edge and driven below the surface of the fibres to remain hidden. In areas with high foot traffic or pet activity, additional fixings may be needed to keep the turf firmly in place.

Finishing Touches and Brushing

Once fitted, the artificial grass should be brushed with a stiff broom or power brush to lift the fibres and give a more upright, natural look. Brushing also helps distribute any infill used, such as silica sand, which can weigh down the grass and provide additional support. Infill may not be necessary for all installations, but it can improve durability and appearance, particularly in high-use areas.

Check the surface for any loose edges or uneven areas and make final adjustments as needed. A properly installed artificial lawn should feel firm underfoot, drain freely, and blend seamlessly with the surrounding landscape.

Consider Drainage Before You Begin

Good drainage is critical when laying artificial grass over soil. If the ground beneath tends to hold water or becomes boggy after rain, it’s essential to address that before fitting the turf. Adding a sub-base with a slight slope (even just 1 or 2 percent) allows water to run off instead of pooling. For persistently wet areas, installing perforated drainage pipes under the base layer may be necessary to prevent waterlogging and prolong the life of the grass.

Without proper drainage, the backing of the turf can degrade more quickly, and water may stagnate, creating unpleasant odours or moss growth.

Compacting the Soil Properly

Before the sub-base goes down, the exposed soil should be well compacted. Loose or freshly disturbed soil can shift after installation, leading to sagging or bumps. Use a vibrating plate compactor if possible, especially for larger areas, to press the soil down and create a firm, level platform. After compacting, the surface should feel solid underfoot with no obvious dips or soft patches.

A mistake many people make is skipping this step or assuming it’s not necessary for small spaces — but even in a small garden, poor compaction leads to long-term problems.

Choosing the Right Type of Artificial Grass

Not all artificial grass products are the same. If you're installing on soil, especially in an open garden or play area, you need turf with a durable backing and good drainage holes. Look for grass that is UV-resistant, has a realistic pile height for your space, and is suited to its intended use — softer for children, more resilient for pets, and denser if aesthetics are the priority.

Cheaper turf may wear unevenly, flatten quickly, or degrade under direct sunlight, especially when laid directly over a soil-based sub-base.

Edging and Border Retention

Securing the edges is one of the most important — and often overlooked — parts of the job. Without a strong edge, artificial grass can lift, curl, or spread over time. Timber battens fixed along the border work well as a nail-friendly frame, while flexible steel or recycled plastic edging gives a cleaner finish for curved areas. Edging not only holds the turf in place but also helps contain the sub-base and define neat, durable borders.

If you’re abutting paving or decking, make sure the final turf height sits flush with the surface for a seamless transition.

Managing Weed Growth Over Time

Even with a membrane underneath, weeds can still appear at the edges or from blown-in seeds. To reduce this, ensure the weed membrane is high quality, overlaps at the seams, and is covered evenly with a compacted base. Avoid cutting unnecessary holes through the membrane unless absolutely necessary for drainage.

For long-term protection, some professionals apply a pre-installation treatment to the soil — a granular weed suppressant that reduces regrowth without affecting the turf.

Maintenance Considerations After Installation

Artificial grass is low maintenance, not maintenance-free. Leaves, debris, and pet waste still need to be removed. Brushing the turf every few weeks keeps the fibres upright and prevents matting, especially in high-use areas. In dry weather, rinsing the surface occasionally helps clear dust and odours. For pet owners, enzyme-based cleaners or odour-neutralising infills such as zeolite granules can help manage smells and keep the area fresh.

It’s also important to check joints and edges once or twice a year to catch early signs of wear or movement.

Final Word

Fitting artificial grass on soil takes preparation, patience, and attention to detail. From clearing the ground and building a stable base to laying and securing the turf correctly, each step plays a role in the long-term success of the installation. When done properly, artificial grass offers a low-maintenance, all-weather surface that looks great year-round and performs well in gardens, play areas, and high-traffic zones alike.